http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/buying-your-first-horse-4727646.html
Jan 302012
http://www.articlesbase.com/equestrian-articles/beginner-horse-riding-taking-your-first-lesson-2039415.html
http://www.articlesbase.com/shopping-articles/the-first-aid-pack-you-need-for-your-horse-2198326.html
http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/how-to-purchase-your-first-horse–781362.html
When Paloma arrived at the barn, which was accustomed to warmbloods, she drew a crowd of people who were waiting to see in person what a real mustang looked like. Curiosity turned to even greater intrigue when her owner said that she was a “Spanish” mustang, not the feral mustang that roams free in the west. The timing was an interesting coincidence as most of the boarders had seen the movie “Hidalgo,” in which the equine star plays a Spanish mustang.
The Spanish mustang is a descendant of the horses brought to the Americas by the early Spaniards. On his second voyage to the New World, Columbus brought a number of Spanish horses, as the breed was considered to be the finest horses in the world.
In the 1950s, because they were on the verge of extinction, an effort to preserve the Spanish mustang type began through the selection of horses that best demonstrated the Spanish mustang breed characteristics. As a result, the Spanish Mustang Registry was incorporated in 1957. “This registry was formed to preserve and perpetuate the last remnants of the true Spanish mustangs,” according to the Registry. Twenty horses were originally entered into the registry, and current numbers show about 3100.
Like the Spanish mustang breed classification describes, Paloma was just under 14 hands, with short strong canon bones and round, muscular hindquarters. But her most outstanding trait that caught everyone’s admiration was her classic Spanish head with concave forehead and convex nose. Her noble head was set on a fully crested arching neck, and she looked like a baroque horse, such as the Andalusian or Lipizzaner.
A particular herd of pure Spanish mustangs was discovered by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in 1977 and separated to preserve their purity of traits. These horses are known as the Kiger mustangs. To be considered a Kiger, according to the Kiger Mesteño Association, a horse must be the offspring of a registered Kiger or have documented proof it was obtained from one of the Kiger herd management areas. Additionally, Kiger mustangs carry the breed color traits, which include dun and gruel, among others, along with markings such as dorsal stripe, zebra stripes or facial mask.
By contrast, the American mustang is the descendant of escaped light riding horses and draft horses, mixed with the Spanish bred and others. In general, these horses are thought to have little-to-no remaining Spanish blood.
Charged with the oversight of wild mustangs and burros is the BLM, which manages wild horses and burros on the public land in a “multiple use” mission that considers natural resources and uses such as ranch livestock grazing. The BLM monitors herds for health and population size and offers individual animals for adoption. Since 1973, BLM placed more than 213,000 horses and burros in homes through its adoption program. In 2005, Congress enacted a new law to maintain herds at healthy population levels that requires BLM to place for sale horses and burros older than age 10 or for whom adoption has failed three times. According to BLM, this affects approximately 8400 horses and burros.
Formerly wild mustangs have found success in new homes. J.B. Andrews, a large black mustang, has successfully competed in dressage to Intermediare I while schooling at the Grand Prix level.
Michael Albert is an expert by profession but he is also writing articles on horses, stallion, and trailors for a long time. He has done his research work in the same field within the organization of Horse Chit Chat.To know more about horse chit chat, horses for sale, horse trailers, horse forum, equine forum, horse articles visit www.horsechitchat.com
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If you are interested in learning more about horses for beginners or are looking for your first horse, then this article is for you. This article discusses the types of things you should look for when looking for a beginners horse.
Time dedication
Horses require a lot of maintenance. If you think you can just turn your horse out to grass in a field and not worry about it, you are wrong. Horses need to have their feet trimmed and may need shoeing depending on the amount of work they do. Like people, they need to have exercise, or they can get out of shape and fat. Some horses can eat so much that that they founder, which means their fee hurt so much they can’t walk. Horses that have a tendency to gain weight should wear a grazing muzzle when turned out to grass, to prevent overeating. Ponies are especially prone to founder. Horses need to be checked every day to make sure they are not sick or injured. If you board your horse at a boarding facility, your horse is usually checked every day, which helps if you can’t check on him every day.
Your Ability
The horse’s amount of training and your ability are a big consideration when looking for a horse for beginners. If you have no riding experience, it is best to get a well trained quiet horse. These horses are sometimes called schoolmasters. It means they know their job. They are good horses for beginners to learn on, especially if you find one that is very forgiving. This means they don’t get upset when beginners do things wrong.
Your Finances
There are a wide range of prices related to horses. Fancy, flashy show horses can cost thousands of dollars, whereas horses that are less fancy can be more moderately priced. The amount of training a horse has can also affect its price. For example, if a horse is young and has a little bit of training, it will not cost a lot. Unfortunately, horses with little training are not good beginners horses. A horse that is between 6 – 8 years old and has good training is usually more expensive. These horses are in their prime. A horse that is over the age of 10 or 12 years old usually is well trained, but health and the condition of the horse’s joints is a consideration. Older horses are usually great beginner horses, but they may have more associated vet expenses due to their age.
Choosing Your Horse
It is advantageous to have someone experienced go with you when you are choosing your first horse. It is best if you have a trainer, who will not only give you lessons after you buy the horse, but help you choose a horse that will be suited to you.
Buying vs. Leasing
You don’t always have to buy a horse. You also have the option of leasing one. There are a lot of different lease arrangements available including half leases and free leases. Free leases basically mean that you don’t have to pay the owner to use the horse. In this arrangement you are responsible for the horse’s care and living arrangements. Half leases mean that you may use the horse a few days a week, while the owner or someone else uses the horse the other part of the week. If you do have a lease a horse, make sure you have a written agreement, so you know who is responsible for all of the expenses related to the horse, like vet bills.
As you can see, there is a lot to consider when getting your first horse. Before you jump into a purchase or a lease arrangement, make sure you do a lot of research first, so you get a horse that is well suited to your individual needs.
For more helpful horse related information, including horse grooming equipment, visit http://www.beginners-guide-to-horses.com/
First Steps - Approach Your Horse
Training a horse can only start after you have first caught him. This sounds simple enough, but if this is your first attempt at doing so it can be surprisingly frustrating. This is actually the most important step of all in training. Hereby are laid the foundations of trust. During each stage of horse training remember the importance of using the three P’s – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. These three elements work together to help you with each step of horse training.
If your enclosure is of an easily manageable size you will find that the approach stage will be much more efficient. Ideally use a round pen, but a paddock or any large fenced enclosure will also work.
A casual demeanour when first approaching the enclosure is necessary. Do your very best to relax and give the impression of calm. All of life’s stresses need to be left outside the pen. Horses are sensitive prey animals that will become intimidated easily if they sense any stress or aggression. This can be interpreted by the horse as a threat, and this is the last thing you want your horse to see you as. Trust needs to be created between you both.
Go in with the horse but not to catch him yet. That bit will come soon enough. For now just concentrate on becoming familiar with your horse, and letting the horse become familiar with you. Just walk in and stand around for a few moments. Do not look directly at the horse. Predators will intimidate their prey by staring into their eyes. It’s imperative that your horse doesn’t see you as a predator. You need to be seen as part of the herd.
Next time, take a rake in and tidy up a bit. Inspect the fence to see if there are places it needs mending. The horse should not be approached yet. The horse will want to investigate and find out what you are doing. They are naturally very curious animals. You’ll be checked out thoroughly and sniffed once you are a regular visitor.
It is important to remember that this could take some time, particularly if the horse isn’t used to humans. There are some horses who will not feel too shy and approach immediately. Either way is acceptable. The horse will begin to trust you only if you let him become accustomed to you slowly and in his own time. Patience!
Don’t reach for the horse as yet, though you may see this as a good opportunity to grab him. Bear in mind that patience here is the key. This takes time and you are building a foundation that will last throughout training and well beyond. It is important not to rush this step.
When the horse does approach, you should turn and walk away. Make sure that you walk away before your horse does. By doing this you will show him that he is not in charge of you.
Begin to approach your horse, sideways on, only when you feel that you are familiar and comfortable in each other’s presence. A loose and relaxed posture is needed as you approach the horse. Step sideways to alleviate the nerves of a skittish equine. Move towards the side and avoid staring. Glance sideways and move toward your new friend. It’s a bad idea to surprise your horse or sneak up on him with the halter. How will you hold onto the horse when “caught” if the horse is frightened? You will only succeed in breaching any trust by doing this and you will have to begin again. You could also be seriously hurt. The emphasis here is on patience and persistence.
When the horse allows you to come close, it’s time for positive reinforcement. You should try to forget about training at this point. You should only be thinking about bonding with your horse. Simple grooming, brushing, scratching behind the ears, conversation, stroking along the neck area are positive reinforcement tools. Your horse should be able to enjoy these first moments as much as you. Now is the time you are both ready for training.
A note on safety around horses:
You must not approach a horse from behind unless he knows you well. Before you can even think about moving a horse could have delivered you a kick. A horse will always be faster than you, and even more so if he feels under threat in any way. Ensure you can be seen when approaching a horse.
Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurance in place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. Horses are beautiful yet powerful animals, and a swift kick from a lively horse can be enough to put you out of action for a considerable amount of time. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.
Please call us at Animal Friends Insurance on 0844 55 70 300 for a quick quote to cover your household pet against the high cost of veterinary treatment. AFI donate all net profits to helping animals in crisis acround the globe.
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When you own and keep a horse the possibility of injuries ranges from a small scratch on the skin to lameness. Having a well stocked first aid kit in your yard enables you to treat injuries immediately which can prevent a small wound from becoming infected and resulting into a festering wound requiring veterinarian treatment.
Your first aid kit needs to be kept in a location that is easily accessed. All supplies should be well labeled and it is important to ensure that none of the items have expired. Your local veterinarian can be a wonderful source of information as to what products and items your first aid kit should contain.
Your veterinarian will also be able to supply you with products that are not sold over the counter, but that are essential for horse care. Some wounds and illness are best treated solely by your veterinarian; this is often dictated by law, by the severity and technical knowledge. Other times your veterinarian may initially treat your horse and have show you the follow up care that is needed for you to carry out yourself.
Mild superficial wounds are easily treated at home as long as you keep the wound clean and treated on a regular basis. If you have any doubt, always consult a veterinarian or a professional horse caretaker who can effectively advise you as to the next course of action.
Horse’s health is maintained by having at least one veterinarian exam once a year. This can be coordinated with routine vaccinations your horse has, to prevent illness such as equine influenza.
Dental work in horses is often overlooked and it should not be since his mouth is centre of communication. The bit is placed in the mouth and works in a way to signal to the horse our intentions. When the horse has discomfort in his mouth due to his teeth, this often shows up in what we identify as misbehavior.
We could be riding our horse and wondering with some frustration as to why he is tossing up his head on a regular basis. The most common cause is in the mouth, a small tooth erupts called a wolf tooth and when the bit comes into contact with it, it causes pain. A qualified horse dentist or your veterinarian will examine the mouth for signs of the wolf tooth and extract it.
More simply your horse’s health is affected by how he eats his food, if his teeth are interfering with how he ingests the food, he could lose weight and lack energy. A rasping once a year of the teeth will keep this in check.
Lastly but not least your horse needs to be wormed on a regular basis to ensure his health. There is no way to eliminate worms from the equine world, but there are several wormers on the market that can be administered to reduce the worm population and keep them out of your horse.
A good horse owner will have a basic first aid kit and be able to treat his horse, or call for professional help in his time of need.
Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about Horse First Aid Kit and Worming.
http://your-horse-guide.com/Horse+Care+First+Aid+Kit+and+Worming.HTML
